MP Racing

Nicks RX7 goes to the dyno…

At the end of the day, after your car has been on the dyno, the first question just about everyone asks is HOW MUCH POWER DID YOU MAKE!!?

To answer this question, Nick recently took his MP Racing s1 rx7 to a near by dyno to get a power read out.

The results were very encouraging, displaying a fat torque band over the rev range, but also an ultra impressive 272 rwkw at 15psi

The car will be back at winton on the 21st of November for EXE track day II

E85 Test Kit

This cheap & easy to use E85 test kit is a quick way of making sure what you’re getting out of the pump is actually E85!

With caltex service stations now opening E85 bowsers all over Australia, many people will be converting to this fuel.

One of the pitfalls however is that during winter months, to aid in cold starting, the mixture will drop from 85% ethanol / 15% petrol, to as low as 70% ethanol / 30% petrol, effecting the tune up of your car.

By filling this test tube up with water to one mark, then your E85 to the top mark, letting it sit for 5 minutes, you will then be able to see the ethanol content of what you just got from the pump.

If it comes back as only 75% ethanol, you can use something like denatured alcohol to bring it back up to 85%.

Mazda FD3S 3rd Gen RX7 Fuel rail kit…

Well development is over, with fitment of all components being tested thoroughly, its time for this bad boy to go into production!

Look forward to bolting one of these bad boys to the MP Racing FD RX7 in the near future.

Being anodised, they are not effected by alcohol fuels, so they are E85 safe!

Chris’ RX3 J20 Jamboree 2010

With the skinny sidewall hard compound avon circuit slicks bolted on, traction was always going to be an up-hill battle for Chris in his RX3 at the drag strip.

The wide bodied mazda showed its great power though, with a fantastic trap speed of 119 mph, indicating its making considerable power from its stock s6 13Bt engine with just bolt on modifcations.

Final pb ET for the weekend was a 12.3, which if traction wasnt an issue, would most certainly come down closer to the 11.0 range, should the little mazda be able to get off the line cleanly.

The needham 5 speed modified shifter pattern with a dogleg 1st gear surely doesnt help matters either!

Congratulations Chris and Tony and a well presented car.

Goodyear Eagle SS Drag Radial Tyres

New and exclusive to VPW Australia are the Goodyear drag radial tyres.

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?CatID=15&SubCatID=1132&priorCatID=1132&PrdGrpID=4547

Available in a wide range of width and rim sizes, these tyres are the cutting edge of radial tyre technology and will help you get every bit of traction your car needs to put your power to the ground.

For wholesale enquires, contact paulb@vpw.com.au

IPRA – Barbagello Raceway, WA 11/07/2010

A miserable wet and overcast day, much like the 2009 Island Magic race at PI greeted the racers at Barbagello Raceway.

Luckily for the IP racers, the poor weather held out for the most part for their races, and only a slightly damp track and spits of rain would hamper their overall day.

Remainder of album > http://s676.photobucket.com/albums/vv129/Mr_parts/ipra%2011072010/?start=all

Results > http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?11/07/2010.BARB

Race 1 video

Race 2 video

MP Racing > Facebook

http://www.facebook.com/pages/MP-Racing/130494026987799

Now on this thing too

JZS147 Aristo GS300 Twin Boost

Raising boost below 4000rpm on your 2JZGTE Toyota Aristo :

The sequential turbo setup on the 2JZGTE is pretty complex, with a heap of valves and actuators controlling exhaust and intake airflow. These are all part of the sequential setup limiting the second turbo from producing noticiable boost until 4000rpm. Unfortunately for us, most day to day driving is done well below 4000 rpm, and limiting the first turbo to the stock 8 psi can get very boring, especially with the standard stall converter.

The following is a method by which you can increase boost on the first turbo past 8psi.
**NOTE** – Excessive boosting of the first turbo will rob the second turbo of ‘prespool’. That is as more exhaust gas flows to the first turbo for a longer period of time, less is diverted to the second turbo creating a large dip in boost at the 4000 rpm crossover point. If this dip is to great then a big rush of exhaust gas will suddenly impact on the second turbo which is moving quite slow. This may prematurely wear or even damage the rear turbo. I do not recommend running anything over a maximum of 14psi whilst below 4000rpm.
First of all you need the following :

1 meter of 4mm vac hose

0.5 meter of 6mm vac hose

manual boost controller

t piece (6mmx6mmx4mm)

I piece (4mmx4mm)

4mm vac cap (or a screw shoved in the end of some 4mm vac hose)

What we want to achieve here is to restrict the actuator going to the turbo (we are talking about the rear turbo on the engine, the one closest to the firewall). This is done by placing a manual boost controller inline in the line marked pressure before the turbo’s EBV wastegate actuator (pictured below)

The source of this air convieniently comes from the front of the engine, so is very easy to access and to add your MBC inline. The only problem with this is that at the rear of the engine where the actuator is, the metal hard line that carries this boosted air to the actuator has a T in it, with one side going off to the pressure tank. (highlighted in the above picture in yellow)

All i have simply done is removed the line going to the pressure tank, getting it boosted air from another source, and then capping off the t in the metal hard line.

I found it was near on impossible to get to at any rate until i was doing the spark plugs and i saw with the cam plastic cover off that it was semi accessable.

Below is the picture of the front of the car. (ignore the blue painted MBC, it is previously installed and is used to raise boost pressure over 4000 rpm) Here i have disconnected the hose that previously ran straight into the metal pipe that ran to the pressure side of the actuator. I have then put a t piece in this line (coloured pink), with one side leading to the MBC (follow the red arrows out of the pink t piece) and the other side i connected some 4mm vac hose and ran it to the back of the engine. I put an ‘I’ piece in at the end of this line (follow the yellow arrows out of the pink t piece). I then connected the other end of the MBC up to the metal hard line that runs to the pressure side of the actuator. Thats that. Now if i screw the MBC in, it will restrict air going to the rear actuator and raise boost on first turbo.

Now you need to take care of the line on the metal t piece near the actuator. Get a pair of long long needle nosed pliers (i used a 45 degree pair), and pull the hose off. What you want to do now is cap off the metal pipe. With the 4mm vac hose you ran from the front of the car with the i piece installed in it, (and this is the hard part!) try and reach down and grab the disconnected vac hose and slide the i piece into it. (here is a really bad picture of it taken from the passanger side of the car looking from the exhaust cam at the back of the engine)

Below is the vac hose diagram for the aristo. The pink coloured section is the vac hose you need to remove and place the t piece in. The yellow section is the vac hose you need to remove and place the i piece into, as well as capping off the metal hard tube you remove it from.

Once that is done, screw the MBC out all the way to get a base line of what boost it is running at, and then slowly make fine adjustments, testing the car each time until you are happy with the results.

I have used this method to produce 14psi on the first turbo. With my other MBC in place, i also am running about 17psi overall. I did notice that with 14psi on the first turbo, there was a noticeable drop on the boost guage at the 4000rpm change over point. Test with different boost levels to see what suits you best, but do not go over 14 as a maximum.

Nick’s RX7 debut at Winton 21/02/2010

First time out for Nick’s Rx7. Mini report in his words from the day

“Only managed to get out for the first session at 11:30am when it was already hot. So the Pirelli P Zero Street tyres were no good at hooking up the power! So coming into corners the front pointed in really well but the back tried to step around every time and then coming out of the corners it was the same, if I tried to apply ANY power it would come around also!!! So I pretty much rolled into and out of the corners!

Then I felt the brakes were not good, and I had no confidence in powering up to corners and hitting the braking markers! So after 4 laps I retired the car to the pits.
Brand new pads and plenty of fluid, so we did a couple of test pumps and found a small crack in the Brake Booster where air was escaping.

So as far as a test and tune day…..it went well. The car pulls extremely well and points into the corners REALLY well.

I will keep you updated on how it goes!

Here are some pics and links to video.”

Video and Pictures Nick is refering to below :

EJ Whitten Legends Match

http://www.legendsgame.com.au/

Always good for a laugh this match, and tonight should be no different, with Sammy ‘open palm point’ Newman sqauaring off against 74 year old Cobber Rogers.

Tonight, Channel 9, 7.30 pm